Barcelona and Beaches
March, 2017
A quick word before we wander: I was last in Barcelona in 2017, and this guide has lived a few lives since then. Restaurants close, hotels change hands, prices drift upward. Consider every recommendation here a memory with directions attached — double-check that a place still exists before you build your evening around it.
Getting Around
Transportation
I recommend traveling by foot (book a centrally located hotel, near the things you want to do), and taking cabs. I just wasn't interested in learning a public transit system in Spanish. And there is SO MUCH to be seen (architecture-wise) as you're getting from place to place.
Ask your concierge if there is a nearby Taxi Stand. There are always cabs lined up there. If your concierge calls you a taxi, they add on 5 Euro to your fare (to pay the hotel). Smarter to get your own, and super easy at a Taxi Stand. They're clearly marked on maps, too.
Money
Bring plenty of Euro. Many cab drivers said their credit card machines were "broken." (This felt like BS — I believe cab drivers pocket more money if you pay in cash, and I felt a bit of “I can dupe this American” energy. It got to the point where I couldn't argue in broken Spanish anymore, so I gave up and just got more Euro from the ATM. Long story short — bring the Euro — it's easier!)
Credit Cards
Don't plan on using an AmEx much. You can probably pay for large purchases, like your hotel, via AmEx, but for cabs, shops, dinners — many of them do not accept AmEx. I did fine with my Visa.
Tipping
Keep tips light. If a bar tab is 18 Euro, put down a 20. If you have a breakfast for 30, maybe put 2 or 3 Euro down. I never tipped in a cab, unless I had a great conversation with a friendly driver. I definitely tipped our private excursion leader (20%), but that's not the expectation. Small tips are somewhat expected, but it's not set in stone, like in the US.
Currency
Shopkeepers may ask you, when you use your credit card, "Do you want to pay in dollars or Euro?" It's always best to pay in local currency — choose "Euros."
Food
Tapas, tapas, everywhere! From grab and go to fine dining, Barcelona is all about small bites. I LOVE eating like this. I'd rather graze all day long than have two or three big meals. It's customary to have a few shrimp, some ceviche, or olives and cheese with a glass of sangria at any point in the day!
Look out for more basic, bar-type places in touristy areas — a lot of their "cold" tapas are pre-made somewhere else and have been sitting out on the bar all day. Not so delicious. Keep an eye out for this.
Try the Catalan Bread (it wasn't super yummy to me, but it's a traditional Catalan cuisine and they're very proud of it). It's a toast with tomato paste on it. You might get it on your table, complimentary, or use it as the "base / collector" for the different tapas you order, like shrimp or olives.
Hours
They don't do siesta in Barcelona. They're very much night owls, so shops / restaurants may open later in the day than you'd think. Locals tend to eat dinner on the later side, but it wouldn't be unheard of to have a 6:00 p.m. dinner.
If there's a place you want to go, be sure and check on the open hours. Not much is open on Sundays.
Intercultural Relations
The prevailing sentiment around Americans I encountered was "so-so." I know some Spanish and started with "Hola. ¿Cómo estás?" and most people "bit" and were sweet and congenial, but some grew quickly tired when I couldn't completely order in Spanish. {Tsk, Eye Roll, Foot Tap} So, I recommend being as friendly and patient as possible, and never assuming everyone knows English.
There were also a few times wherein the restaurants looked empty, but the host would say, "Mmm, it's a half hour wait," almost hoping we'd say, "Forget it." But when we said, "No problem," they miraculously found us a table. Don't let it bother you — we just kept eating and drinking!
Private Tour
I can recommend a wonderful tour guide who will bring you wherever you want to go in Barcelona for a very reasonable price (maybe 100 Euro, per person, per day). See "Day Trips" below for thought starters — the guide can customize to suit your needs! (Text me for his information.)
He will bring you door-to-door from your hotel through Catalonia, including (or not including) a La Sagrada Família tour. He has his own small van. He will drop you off right in front of your tour spot, cover the cost of exhibits, and answer ANY questions you have. He will do day trips to the seashores north and south of Barcelona, too. (These places are like movie sets!)
He knows everything, will give you space if you want it, and let you stroll, take photos, etc. This was so worth it for us — we didn't need to worry about getting to the attractions, parking, or figuring out where exactly to start
Attractions
El Born Neighborhood
I could have spent my entire week strolling, shopping and sipping in El Born. This reminds me of Le Marais in Paris. There are shops, restaurants, cafes, churches, etc. It's a series of cobblestone roads you can get lost in. We went here every night and wound up at a new spot.
Picasso Museum (in El Born)
This is cool because it's built into the cityscape of El Born. We waited in line for 30+ minutes to get in. If you use the headphones (free with admission), you can learn a bit about Picasso and cubism. It wasn't life-changing, but we were in Barcelona for a week and it was quite rainy that day, so it was a nice way to pass some time.
Palau Dalmases (in El Born)
Flamenco Show. One of the most wonderful, authentic travel experiences I've ever had. So much pageantry and passion. We were sweated upon, rows back, from the hard work of the dancers! My friends and I still joke about it.
The cost of admittance (maybe 20 or 30 Euro?) comes with one drink (we had authentic sangria — yum!). It's about 1.5 hours total, with several traditional dances — male, female, and couples. So much amazing energy. I felt fully enveloped in the beauty and history of Barcelona in the performance dwelling.
TIP: Have your concierge make a reservation. (We jumped in last minute, without reservations, and still had a wonderful time. We were definitely squeezed in, but it was worth it!)
Galeria Maxo (in El Born)
Modern, original, only-in-Barcelona art. The artist — Maxo — has more than one shop, two or three in El Born alone. It's a wonderful place to look around and buy reasonably priced, playful, unique, original pieces. He makes these little 3D Barcelona "windows" and more traditional paintings, too.
We got to meet Maxo and have a drink with him. You can see where the art is made — he'll bring you back and show you his studio, if you ask. He will also give you great local restaurant recommendations.
Ciudadela Park (near El Born)
Such a beautiful park for strolling. Gorgeous flowers, street performances, and water fountains. When I was there, there was an (amateur) Flamenco Dancing contest. So fun! So much energy there. It might be likened to Central Park. You can also walk to Barcelona's Arc de Triomf from here.Barceloneta Beach and Marina (walkable from El Born)
Give yourself time to stroll around here. The yachts are crazy and the beach is delightful. It's crowded and touristy, but it's cool there's a beach right next to the bustling city. Bring a blanket from your hotel if you can (to sit on). My friend and I just sat on the sand (it's a bit gravelly).
Cool thing — there are little pieces of sea glass everywhere!
People will try to sell you beach blankets and rum drinks. I think I said, "No, gracias," 20 times in one hour. [This is close to El Born and 7 Portes restaurant. You could do these things at the same time.]
La Boqueria
I am not one to drop myself into a tourist trap, but that said, this place HAS to be experienced. It is so loud and colorful and FULL of gorgeous, delicious foods. Many places will give you a sample of almost any candy, cookie, or fruit. My friends and I had a ton of fun at the nougat shop. YUM. (I never knew!) Be warned — the "every part of the cow" shop is gross.
This is just a series of shops — no need for reservations. Go hungry and plan to snack! You might ask your concierge if there's a "lighter" foot traffic time of day to go.
La Sagrada Família
NOT TO BE MISSED. You need to spend time both inside and outside, exploring. It's a truly holy experience and so funky. I recommend spending the extra money (I think it's 30 Euro total) for the headphones tour, with tower. They send you up the tower in an elevator and you walk down a narrow, spiral staircase. A very unique experience with many spots to stop, look out over Barcelona from high, and snap photos.
Goodness, Gaudí is so talented. I never knew the depths of his artistry and expression until I came to La Sagrada Família. After you visit, you will forever notice his work (around the world) and the work he's influenced. I treasure the experience.
TIP: Order tickets — well ahead. Don't be late for your start time.
Day Trips
Girona, Costa Brava (Catalonia villages) — gorgeous seaside and architecture Tarragona / Sitges — beachy and glamorous!
Hotels
I stayed here:
Hotel Ambit (4 Stars) Carrer de Roger de Llúria, 17, 08010 Barcelona, Spain
This was in the Gothic / "Gothica" neighborhood. Close to restaurants and Catalunya Square. You could stroll in any direction for hours just to gaze at the architecture. ☺
My friends stayed here:
Park Hotel Barcelona (3 Stars) Av. del Marquès de l'Argentera, 11, 08003 Barcelona, Spain
The hotel itself is basic, 3- to 4-stars, but the location was perfect. The hotel is across the street from the train station — Estació de França — [like South Station or Penn Station — the real train that could bring you to other parts of Spain or Europe]. It is in the trendy El Born district.
I recommend staying at Park Hotel.
Fine Dining
Restaurant 7 Portes $$$$ (walkable from El Born) Authentic / fine tapas; GREAT wine list; seafood Attire: A bit dressy (This is near the marina / beach, so you could stroll and then eat here!) TIP: Have your concierge make a reservation.
Ten's Tapas $$$ (in El Born) Chic / fine tapas; excellent wine collection; Michelin star chef (the plating is gorgeous!) Attire: A bit dressy (This is RIGHT next to Park Hotel, if you stay there) TIP: Have your concierge make a reservation.
Everyday Dining
Casa Alfonso $$–$$$ (in Gothica) Authentic / cool / a bit of a historic tapas and wine spot They prefer you to have reservations, but always seemed to find a spot for us when we arrived.
Costa Pacifico $$–$$$ (in El Born) Casual, delicious Mexican tapas. Best, freshest ceviche I've ever had. No need for reservations.
LULU $$ (in El Born) Great, basic tapas and fun cocktails, easy for an anytime pop-in. The breakfast avocado toast was PERFECTION. I think they make smoothies / green juice, too. (RIGHT next to Park Hotel, if you stay there.) No reservations — super casual — just walk in.